Yamaguchi Prefecture is bigger than it looks on a map. My wife and I wanted to visit Tsunoshima Bridge, see the red gates of Motonosumi Shrine, stroll through Hagi’s old town and—if we could squeeze it in—take a hot spring bath.
Too much for two days? Probably. But holidays are for exploring, aren’t they?
So, in September 2023, we drove from Hiroshima into Yamaguchi for one night and two very full days. Our actual route was Mikawa Mu Valley → Hagi Castle Town → Motonosumi Shrine → Nagato overnight → Tsunoshima → Karato Market and Shimonoseki.
We drove a lot. Staying overnight in Nagato was what made the trip work. Here is what we enjoyed, what took longer than expected, and what I would tell someone planning to follow our route.
Travel note: The experiences and photos are from September 2023. The practical notes below include changes checked in November 2026; always confirm closures and opening hours before you travel.
Our real two-day road-trip route
| Day | Stops |
| Day 1 | Hiroshima → Mikawa Mu Valley → Hagi old town → Motonosumi Shrine → Nagato and Nagato Yumoto Onsen |
| Day 2 | Nagato → Tsunoshima Bridge and island → Karato Market → Shimonoseki → Dannoura Parking Area |
Don’t mistake this for a short trip from Hiroshima. Eastern Yamaguchi is closer, but Tsunoshima and Motonosumi are much farther west. Allow a full two days or reduce the number of stops. Even for us, this was a very ambitious schedule.
Day 1: Underground adventures, an old town and red gates
Mikawa Mu Valley: a cave adventure that turned us into RPG heroes
We began in Iwakuni at Mikawa Mu Valley, a former mining site now used as an underground adventure park. Visitors can explore passages, solve puzzles and try activities such as gold panning.
There were just two of us, both adults. That didn’t stop us getting completely absorbed in the puzzles. Before long, I felt like the hero of an RPG.
Between exploring the caves, trying gold panning and eating, we spent just under three hours here. Give yourself close to half a day if you want to take your time. On the drive, we also passed near the remote Seiryu Miharashi Station, with beautiful mountain and river scenery.
Opening days and facilities vary. Check the official Mu Valley calendar before visiting.
Hagi Castle Town: the fun of wandering without a plan
Next came Hagi. Traditional white walls and historic streets make the castle town a pleasure to explore on foot.
We looked at places connected with the historical figures Shinsaku Takasugi and Takayoshi Kido, browsed Hagi pottery, and wandered along side streets. Personally, I enjoy towns like this most when I don’t feel obliged to tick off every landmark.
At a traditional-style cafe called Sawarabi, we had a warabi-mochi drink. It was genuinely delicious.
If you have more time than we did, Shoin Shrine and Shokasonjuku Academy would make interesting additions to a longer Hagi visit.
Motonosumi Shrine: the Sea of Japan and a line of red torii gates
One of the most memorable sights of Day 1 was Motonosumi Shrine. Red torii gates descend toward the blue sea, with green hills all around.
I’d seen countless pictures, but standing there was different. The view really is striking.
In 2023, the shrine still had its famously difficult-to-reach offering box positioned high above visitors. That box has since been removed, and there are no plans to reinstall it.
Important update (November 2026): The red torii walkway is closed for repairs, currently expected to continue until spring 2027 or later. Certain viewing areas may remain accessible, but there are also partial worship-access closures on selected days. Please check Nagato Tourism’s latest notices before your visit. The local tourism authority also notes that public bus and train access is difficult; a car or taxi is the practical option.
A night in Nagato: KULABO Taishokan and a relaxing hot spring
We stayed at KULABO Taishokan in Nagato. It suited our style: a convenient place to sleep while we went out to eat and explore, rather than spending the whole evening inside a luxury resort.
After dinner, we headed to the bathhouse Onto in Nagato Yumoto Onsen. I wasn’t sure about water that felt relatively mild. Then I got in—and suddenly didn’t want to get out.
After all that driving and sightseeing, it felt wonderful. Better still, sleeping in Nagato put us near our next morning’s destination.
Day 2: The blue sea, seafood and one final detour
Tsunoshima Bridge: even better than the photos
In the morning we drove to Tsunoshima Bridge. The road stretches across brilliant blue water to Tsunoshima Island.
I’ve seen it before, and I still can’t help saying, “Wow.” Some places don’t need a sophisticated review.
We crossed onto the island, spent time near the lighthouse, and explored cafes and souvenir shops. Our visit lasted around two to three hours. If you come for the bridge view, give yourself time to enjoy the island as well.
And please use proper parking and viewing spots rather than stopping on the bridge for a picture.
Karato Market: the seafood temptation
After Tsunoshima we continued to Shimonoseki and visited Karato Market. If you like seafood, it’s a dangerous place for your self-control.
With so many kinds of sushi and seafood to choose from, we kept saying, “Let’s get that one too.” We ended up buying more than planned, and honestly that was part of the fun.
Check the date: The market’s popular Iki-iki Bakangai food event is held on specified Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, not every weekday. See the official calendar before planning your lunch stop.
Kaikyokan aquarium and our last stop at Dannoura
The Kaikyokan aquarium is near Karato Market and could make another stop if you have time. It is especially known for marine displays including pufferfish. Since our 2023 trip, the aquarium has undergone renovations and reopened on August 1, 2025; check the official website for today’s details.
Our final actual stop was Dannoura Parking Area, a highway rest stop overlooking the Kanmon Strait.
We even entered the expressway heading toward Kyushu from Shimonoseki, visited the rest stop, exited at Moji and turned around. Yes, we were supposedly heading home. Apparently we still wanted one last adventure.
That was our own detour, not a suggested shortcut. Check tolls and expressway access if you’d like to visit it.
Other Yamaguchi places we’ve enjoyed — not on this itinerary
Yamaguchi has more to offer than our already packed route. These two places were not stops on this particular two-day journey.
Beppu Benten Pond
The water here is astonishingly clear and blue. You might plan a quick stop, only to find yourself standing and staring much longer than expected.
Akiyoshidai Plateau
Akiyoshidai’s open green landscape and scattered pale limestone rocks make for another enjoyable drive. It would work better as part of a different route with Beppu Benten Pond, rather than adding it to these same two days.
Is renting a car worth it for Yamaguchi from Hiroshima?
For this specific route, yes—a car made our trip possible at our own pace. The attractions are spread across the prefecture, and public transport to Motonosumi Shrine is particularly difficult.
But if you’re only visiting Hiroshima’s city centre and the Atomic Bomb Dome, you don’t need a car. Walk or take the streetcar instead.
For a longer Yamaguchi road trip, you can compare rental car options in Japan on DiscoverCars.
Affiliate disclosure: This is an affiliate link. I may earn a commission on eligible bookings.
Before renting, check whether your licence is valid for driving in Japan, whether you need an International Driving Permit or an authorized Japanese translation, and what insurance and toll arrangements your booking includes.
Four tips from our two days on the road
- Stay overnight in Nagato. It worked well between Motonosumi Shrine and Tsunoshima for us.
- Allow more time than you think. Mu Valley and Tsunoshima can easily eat up several hours.
- Check closures. Motonosumi’s repairs and the Karato Market food-event calendar can change your plan.
- Be willing to skip a stop. A road trip is supposed to be fun, not an endurance test.
I realize this is funny advice from someone who kept driving until the final parking-area viewpoint. Still, it’s good advice.
FAQ: Planning a Yamaguchi road trip
Can I do the whole route as a day trip from Hiroshima?
I wouldn’t recommend it. The western coastal attractions are too far apart for a relaxed one-day itinerary from central Hiroshima. Choose fewer destinations or stay overnight.
Where did you stay?
We stayed at KULABO Taishokan in Nagato and enjoyed Nagato Yumoto Onsen after dinner. The location worked well for our Day 2 drive toward Tsunoshima.
Is Motonosumi Shrine open?
The red torii walkway is currently closed for repairs, although some nearby viewing may be possible. Check official updates before setting out.
Would three days be better?
If you want to spend longer in Hagi, take your time at Tsunoshima, or add Akiyoshidai and Beppu Benten Pond, absolutely. Our two-day version was fun but busy.
Final thoughts: Yamaguchi is made for exploring
In two days we went underground, explored an old castle town, looked over the Sea of Japan, enjoyed a hot spring, drove across a blue sea and ate far too much seafood.
A little ambitious? Very. But it reminded me how many interesting places are within a road trip of Hiroshima—if you give yourself enough time to get there.
This article is based on our own September 2023 trip. Read the original Japanese article.
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